Camping under the koalas – the Great Ocean Road

The Great Ocean Road was where this idea all started. A thought tossed across a pub bench in an English country garden; about doing it on motorbikes, in sunshine, with John, the former leader of the Royal Signals White Helmets Motorcycle Display Team. In reality, it’s been a cold, damp, overcast day, with intermittent showers, and I fell asleep while John wrestled the warm cab of the Land Rover round breathtaking corners. But more of that later.

Our evening on the Mornington Peninsula was enlivened by the arrival of Guy’s friends, Phil and Moira. Tales of Alaska, the North Sea, and sailing sped the hours, along with a fine vintage Mornington Peninsula Pale Ale.  In the morning an old fellow-camper cycles by, picking up on the strange accents and gives us the benefit of his opinion. ‘Australia; we’ve got the best country in the world! But look at us; we’ve got gold but we’re in debt. It’s run by dickheads!’  Interesting to see where his votes lands at this election time.

At Sorrento we squeeze on the eight o’clock ferry with little fuss or nonsense, bypassing Melbourne and arriving in the historic town of Queenscliff, full of colonial-era buildings and home for many years of the Australian Staff College in the old fort.

Not for the first time, James raised the blight on his military career of his posting to staff college in Spain – all my fault, ostensibly, many years ago – when it could have been Australia.

He poses by the guns, hoping to absorb a bit more military wisdom, no doubt.

Then it is off to a rendezvous with another James. He, the son of an Australian Naval officer friend of James (senior) has a drone business, and an offer to take some really sharp pics of the Land Rover pair.

We meet in Torquay where it is raining. ‘What are we doing in this Torquay looking at the sea in the rain when we could just as easily do this in England!’ ask my companions. I have no answer. James (junior) has. ‘This is Melbourne. If you don’t like the weather, wait five minutes and it will change.’

We have a magic half hour with James, at the end of which some really polished photos arrive. James Drones, if you ever need those services in the Melbourne area. Thanks, James!

Then it is off down the Great Ocean Road.  Even under cloud and rain it is spectacular. Sheets of rock surround the coastline, beaten flat by the Southern Ocean surf. Holiday homes cling to the cliffs like carbuncles amid the wind-twisted gorse and coastal hill scrub. We pass a rainswept Cumberland River Holiday Park. Holidays for Eskimos, perhaps, but not this Queenslander, not today.

The road winds between sheer cut rock. Little sandy beaches appear but there’s no shelter. Those few brave souls there are in beanies and wind proofs.

Mount Defiance Lookout appears, its name summing up the tenacity of this road’s builders.

The wind deters us from an alfresco lunch so we cower in a café.  

James (junior) has suggested looking for Koalas at Cape Otway. We wind our way there, passing a coach-load of Asian tourists all gazing vacantly up a tree.

This is the koala tour. We can safely claim to have seen people looking at a koala but not the actual koala itself.

We chance upon our next campsite; Bimbi Park. It’s delightful; hot showers and a real kitchen.

And it’s supposed to have koalas here in the wild.

Guy and James aren’t impressed, at first. But interest grows.  John spots two, James sees four, and Guy photographs one on the ground at night. There is no wind, the stars come out and we get a fire going.  A good day.

Our aim in doing this trip of course is to give others a good day too. Young people in particular need them if they are to achieve their potential. Onside in the UK, through its Youth centres and The Smith Family in Australia through its mentoring programs strive to give all young people the good days they need if they are to contribute successfully to life. So please help spread the message about the charities we’re supporting by sharing the link or our gofundme page and help the contributions to keep coming in.  

2 comments / Add your comment below

  1. An absolute pleasure to meet the four of you, and a privilege to take some snaps of the beautiful Land Rovers.

    Stay safe and looking forward to the rest of the trip!

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