By the time we get going the next morning, the flies are back. This is now serious dune country. We reduce tyre pressures still further to around the recommended settings; front 22, rear 27 psi. Down now from 40 and 45 that we’ve been using on the roads. We visit the actual Madigan Camp 5, confer on navigation and set off east. The dunes begin to match James’ description. Trickier, and a greater driving challenge.
There’s a pattern to the Madigan line crossing after Camp 5. The Northern Simpson dunes climb gently from the west and then drop steeply on their east face. It’s one way only; west to east – the way we’re going after our long detour south to get here.
We fit sand flags, mostly to make it easier to see one another – camouflage vehicles blend too easily with their natural background.
I can’t really convey in words how much fun dune driving is. But let me try. Second or third gear, high ratio up the gentle uphill slope, always with dips and rises on the shifting sandy track to add variety.
Then a left hand bend, change to second gear as the slope steepens and the wheel-gouges and holes of former travelers bump and shake the vehicle.
A right turn, first gear if necessary, to take you straight up the last ten metres, a burst of power to get over the steeper, soft, windblown peak; a windscreen full of blue sky, then the sudden whooping rush down as you clear the crest, heart in mouth that the track is still beneath your wheels.
Often there is an immediate quirky turn to the right again as the trail takes you across the steep slope gathering speed.
Then engine braking on the way down, accelerating out of the bottom dip to cross the valley floor in third, then again the gentle climb.
‘Rinse and repeat 600 times’. Every dune is different, and there are not enough of them.
We fight each other to drive, not willing to stop; not only because of the ever-present flies when we do, but because it is too much fun!
We do eventually stop; just at dusk at Madigan Camp 13 – a green clear oasis in a valley bottom, and set up ‘Old Crocks’ Camp 2’ by torchlight. The night wind is warm. Satellites flicker over-head. The Junior Dorm, with no road trains to study, become engrossed, breaking off from today’s topic of ‘why are there no camels, when we can see their footprints?’ At one point a huge green shooting star that glows for seconds then dies as it breaks up; all under a bright waxing gibbous moon.
We’re becoming fly savvy. Its not worth trying to do anything static in daylight but they can’t keep up with a moving vehicle. After shaving yesterday morning I shared my egg-cup sized shaving water with no less than 15 of them.
They are in the tea. They are all over food in preparation. They wait at dawn for you to open your swag zips – all over the fly-screen.
Consequently, everything is done in the hours of darkness, from chopping onions through shaving to making tomorrow’s lunch. To ease cooking, tonight’s meal is boil-in-the-bag packed rations. Delicious! And fly-free!
One thing that isn’t free is the cost of helping veterans suffering due to their service and disadvantaged children. In undertaking this adventure we’re trying to highlight the important work that four charities do to provide that help. Mates4mates, Combat Stress, The Smith Family and Onside all provide programmes that do this. So please help spread the message about the charities we’re supporting by sharing the link or our gofundme page and help others to contribute.